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Navigating the City

Navigation is about the varied ways urban dwellers move through space to experience the city to construct meaning in their lives.

We begin our search to discover” the soul of a city” by intentional acts of navigation, finding our way to some of the places that are iconic, places that create a spirit of community, places that tell the city’s story (including its hidden story), places of nourishment and places that are engaged in transforming the life of the city.

Spiritual Navigation

Spiritual navigation involves moving beyond our customary patterns of movement. In spiritual navigation we strive to see the city through the eyes of others, especially people we don’t encounter in our everyday lives. Our spirit will be enlarged as we open ourselves to the world of those who differ from us in their life experience. These places and personal encounters will inevitably raise questions, pose challenges, yield insights and perhaps even move us to action.

Spiritual navigation also involves seeking out places of inspiration and renewal. These "spiritual places" might include designated sacred sites (a church, temple, mosque or synagogue) as well as places of natural beauty (an urban park, a fountain or even a river view). 

Hopefully, over time, some of these places we discover in intentional acts of spiritual navigation will lead us to new habits and routines and an evolving urban lifestyle.

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Discovering the City

DISCOVERY IS ABOUT  LEARNING HOW TO "READ THE CITY" AS A NATURAL, HUMAN, BUILT, AND SPIRITUAL ENVIRONMENT.  

This kind of discovery takes us to places that mark the identity of the city, places that awaken us to the city's story or narrative (Including its "shadow story") and places that allow us to experience community. In pursuing the city as spiritual geography we seek out places that take us beyond the familiar to places where we can exercise compassion or work for justice.  We also explore places of hidden beauty and "sacred spaces" that can renew the spirit.

I have organized these places in the following groupings: iconic sights; contemplative spaces; urban walks and hikes; and places to eat.

Seven Iconic Places

Portland is not a city filled with a host of must-see sights in any conventional sense, but there are a few places that Portlanders and out-of-towners often visit or I find worthy of a visit. Portland is a city of many exquisite public and private gardens, so it should not be surprising that many of these sights are gardens and parks. Almost everyone here with access to a garden has planted a rose bush or two--Portland is known as the City of Roses after all!

PIONEER COURTHOUSE SQUARE  +  701 SW SIXTH AVENUE

There is life in Portland’s Living Room. Pioneer Courthouse Square is my favorite spot in Portland. One of the most visited sites in Oregon, the Square is a public park (managed by a non-profit board) and commonly known as “Portland’s Living Room.”  Portland residents come here for festivals and concerts, to protest and to celebrate or just to “hang out.” There is an annual tree lighting, concerts and movies during the summer months, and many events throughout the year.  Check out their website for details. The Square is also where you can find transit information and purchase passes. While you’re on the Square, make sure you check out the food carts, the Weather Machine and have a photo taken with the Umbrella Man! The Square has over 10,000,000 visitors each year.

There is a great view of the Square and downtown from the Departure Lounge (located on the top floor of The Nines Hotel).

POWELL’S CITY OF BOOKS  +  1005 W BURNSIDE

Powell’s is Portland’s legendary bookstore and the largest independent bookstore in America.  Covering an entire city block, you can easily spend an afternoon at Powell’s and walk away with some treasures you never knew you needed! 

While Powell’s is iconic, Portland’s neighborhood bookstores such as Broadway Books and Annie Bloom’s Books are well worth a visit. The newest entrant to Portland’s bookstore scene—and my personal favorite—is Arches Bookhouse, specializing in the humanities.

THE THREE PARKS IN THE PEARL

Powell’s Bookstore is on the edge of The Pearl. This is the city’s newest neighborhood in what used to be a train yard and industrial district. The real reason to visit this upscale neighborhood  is for the three parks which serve as a spine for the neighborhood.

• Jamison Square – A child-friendly fountain makes this a lively place when the sun is out.

• Tanner Springs Park – A reminder of the stream that used to run through The Pearl in its pre-Industrial days.

• The Fields – A generous space made-to-order for summer sunbathers and dog-walkers.

LAN SU CHINESE GARDEN

The Lan Su Chinese Garden is a place of serenity and calm in the heart of the city. There is a teahouse for afternoon tea and conversation.  Portland is a city of growing diversity and an important part of this story involves the arrival of Chinese laborers in 1885.   The Lan Su Chinese Garden honors  this heritage and is located in what was Portland's second chinatown. While you are in the area you may want to visit the Portland Chinatown Museum.

PENINSULA PARK ROSE GARDEN +  700 N ROSA PARKS WAY

Arguably, Portland’s most iconic garden is the sunken rose garden in Peninsula Park, the first public rose garden in the city. Portland is known as the "City of Roses" and the official Portland rose was cultivated in this garden. The park also has a pubic pool and a graceful gazebo, along with a play area for children. 

DAWSON PARK + N STANTON STREET AND WILLIAMS AVENUE

Dawson Park is a two-acre city park that serves as a symbolic hub for Portland’s African American community which gives the park status as an urban icon. The park has been a witness to the impact of the redlining, disinvestment, urban renewal and displacement that has devastated the lives of those who lived in the surrounding neighborhood, but the park has also served as a significant gathering place for community celebrations and protests.  This complex history is powerfully captured in the park by a lovely cupola that was rescued from a business block destroyed by urban renewal and there are boulders and metallic plates that surround a fountain of living water to mark significant moments in the history of the African American community and the park.

Historical note: Dawson Park was named in the 1920s in honor of an Episcopal minister, The Rev. John Dawson, who was an advocate for child welfare and civic improvement.

KELLER FOUNTAIN PARK  +  SW 3RD AVENUE AND CLAY STREET

Designed by the internally renowned design firm of Lawrence Halprin and Associates, the completion of Keller Fountain Park in 1970 launched a new era in Portland's public life. The central feature of the park is a water fountain that  pumps 13,000 US gallons per minute over the cascade. The park is part of what has been called Portland's Open Space Sequence that links four Halprin projects.

Three Contemplative Spaces

THE RESERVOIRS AT MOUNT TABOR PARK +  SE 60TH AVENUE AND SALMON STREET

Mount Tabor Park is an extinct volcanic vent with some simple hiking trails (red trail, green trail, blue trail).  This 176 acre park is a contemplative place, offering spectacular views of the city along with a series of reflective reservoirs. The reservoirs were long part of the city's water system. Although now disconnected from the drinking water supply,  thanks to the efforts of the Mt. Tabor Neighborhood Association, they  remain as a sacred treasure for locals and visitors alike to enjoy. Mt. Tabor Park was named after the Biblical Mt. Tabor, six miles east of Nazareth. 

In 2023 Mount Tabor was named as America’s first Urban Quiet Park by Quiet Parks International.

THE ST. JOHNS BRIDGE AND CATHEDRAL PARK

The St. Johns Bridge is a masterwork of elegant design and an object of contemplation. Seen from the St. Johns neighborhood on the east bank of the Willamette River and looking across toward Forest Park, the gothic arches above inspire drivers who cross this steel suspension bridge as the gothic arches below inspire those who stand underneath the bridge in the aptly named Cathedral Park. 

PORTLAND JAPANESE GARDEN + THE WEST HILLS IN WASHINGTON PARK

The Portland Japanese Garden is a favorite of visitors to the city and deservedly so. It is widely regarded as the finest Japanese garden in North America.  This beautifully designed 12 acre garden consists of eight garden spaces and a cultural village. The many winding pathways, elevations and and places to rest can provide those who enter this garden with a sense of deep peace and gratitude for the beauty and wonder of creation.  

 Three Urban Hikes and Walks

MACLEAY PARK + NW 29TH AND UPSHUR STREET

There are easy-to-access trails in Macleay Park which is a part of Forest Park, the largest, forested natural area within city limits in the United States. Forest Park is filled with hiking trails.

LADD’S ADDITION 

The Ladd’s Addition neighborhood of arts and craft houses makes for a lovely walk.  I always include a few alleys and stop at Upper Left Roasters or Palio’s for tea or coffee.

OAKS BOTTOM WILDLIFE REFUGE

The 141 acres of Oaks Bottom provide trails and abundant bird-watching opportunities.

Six Great Places to Eat

Portland has a vibrant food culture that is continually changing and evolving, although the pandemic took a heavy toll with many legendary restaurants closing. A commitment to locally sourced ingredients and imaginative cuisine has won for Portland a place as one of America's great food cities. Here are just a few of my favorite places to eat that either reflect the culinary identity of Portland or foster a strong sense of community (or both!). 

BOLLYWOOD THEATER  +  2039 NE ALBERTA AND 3010 SE DIVISION 

Both Bollywood Theater locations feature a menu of Indian street food.  In the interest of full disclosure, Bollywood is owned by my son-in-law, Troy MacLarty. Troy, a master chef who studied with Alice Waters at Chez Panisse,  has created some unusual Indian dishes served in an informal atmosphere. You will usually find a Bollywood movie projected on a wall.   But don’t take my word for it, Bollywood has been written up in Sunset magazine and in the Los Angeles Times. 

KACHKA + 960 SE 11TH AVENUE

Anyone who has ever fallen in love with Russian food or drink will fall in love with Kachka. Drop by for a vodka flight and make sure you try the zakuski (Russian snack food).  

COQUINE  +  6839 SE BELMONT

I frequently go to Coquine  mid-morning for coffee and pastries. The restaurant is located on Mt Tabor, a volcanic cinder cone and park in Southeast Portland . While dinners can be a little pricey, they are quite amazing. The restaurant was The Oregonian’s 2016 Restaurant of the Year and a James Beard new restaurant/chef semifinalist.

VIKING SOUL FOOD  +  4422 SE WOODSTOCK BLVD

Portland is a city of food carts and Viking Soul Food was a favorite.  You never knew that Norwegian lefse could be taken to such heights when accompanied by salmon or Norwegian meatballs or even lemon curd. Now the food cart is closed but Viking Soul Food is alive and well is in a very small but cozy brick and mortar restaurant in the Woodstock neighborhood.

NOBLE ROT + 111 E BURNSIDE

I have gone to Noble Rot for years. This 4th floor east side restaurant is one of the few places where you can view downtown and the west side of Portland over dinner. Known for its ample selection of great wines (that’s where the name comes from) you can also enjoy an exceptional meal.

PORTLAND MERCADO  +  7238 SE FOSTER ROAD

The Portland Mercado offers a rich feast of the diverse flavors of Latin America served up in eight food carts. The Mercado is a testimony to the entrepreneurial spirit and has become a hub for Latinx culture in Portland.

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Transforming the City

TRANSFORMATION IS PURSUING A VISION OF THE CITY WHERE ALL ARE ABLE TO EXPERIENCE FULLNESS OF LIFE IN COMMUNITY. 

The work of urban transformation takes many forms including advocacy and direct action, social empowerment, placemaking, compassionate service, civic awareness, and the socially engaged arts.

While there are creative and transformative public sector efforts in planning and policy-making, such as Prosper Portland’s Broadway Corridor Project, below are just a few examples of Portland non-profits devoted to the transformation of life and the life of the city where I have had a personal connection over the years.

PHAME

"PHAME is a community where adults with disabilities and their families come to engage, learn, and grow in an environment that is supportive and comfortable. Built upon the belief that art is for all and that through the arts students, artists, teachers, and the greater community can discover their own inspiration, PHAME brings passion, joy, and celebration to arts education and performance."

PORTLAND CITY CLUB

The mission of the historic City Club of Portland is "To inform its members and the community in public matters and to arouse in them a realization of the obligations of citizenship."  Over the years the City Club has addressed issues facing the city through research reports, forums and the advocacy of policies and positions endorsed by the club.  The club is now going through a period of transition and redefinition.

STREET ROOTS

Street Roots is a weekly community newspaper that provides income opportunities for people who are experiencing homelessness. The paper provides valuable perspectives on issues faced by those those living on the streets.  I try not to miss an issue.

TABORSPACE

What happens when a sacred space becomes a public place? A creative initiative in 2008 of the Mt. Tabor Presbyterian Church, "the mission of the Taborspace Program is to cultivate connected community, by providing a welcoming and nurturing gathering place, as a collaboration between the church and the neighborhood." While still in recovery after closure during the peak of the pandemic, it is now undergoing a rebirth. Portland favorite Cream Coffee and Bakery has recently taken over the coffee shop space in the historic church bell tower.

THE CITY REPAIR PROJECT

For over twenty years The City Repair Project has been creating public gathering places and building community in the Portland area. These have included street painting, landscaping projects and constructions using natural materials. A good many years ago City Repair inspired the creation of a small bench on the campus of a parish I served.

TRANSITION PROJECTS

There is a lot of talk about serving the unhoused, but Transition Projects has been at it for over 50 years. Serving 10,000 persons each year, “Transition Projects provides individuals with the services, resources and tools they need to end their homelessness, secure housing, and maintain that housing.” My involvement goes back to when I arrived in Portland. It was the first palace I volunteered when it was still known as Burnside Projects. I have also served on their Board of Directors, including one term as Board President.

ECUMENICAL MINISTRIES OF OREGON

Ecumenical Ministries of Oregon (EMO) has as its mission to bring together congregations, religious denominations and diverse communities of faith “to learn, serve and advocate for justice, peace and the integrity of creation.” Over the years EMO has been the catalysts for dozens of programs and initiatives in areas such as refugee resettlement, support for persons with HIV/AIDS, anti-racism, environmental stewardship, housing, and emergency food.